Diverter flashing
Kickouts are fitted at the bottom of roof-to-wall joints which protects the wall below.
Most leaks at walls, dormers and roof edges in Randolph come down to flashing, and a roofer can fix it by replacing the failed metal rather than caulking over it, with the wall sheathing checked for hidden rot. One call to (973) 858-1826 reaches a nearby roofer who repairs flashing.
Shingles handle the open field of a roof; flashing handles the joints. The main types are step flashing at sidewalls, apron flashing at headwalls, counter flashing over the top, kickouts at the bottom of walls, valley metal and drip edge at the edges. A single missing or loose piece is enough to send water behind the shingles or into the wall.
Flashing leaks are sneaky because the water often runs into the wall instead of the attic. At the base of a roof-to-wall joint, water with nowhere to go runs behind siding and soaks the wall framing. That is why flashing deserves a close look on any house with walls rising above a roof.
Caulk is not flashing. Sealant smeared where flashing should be dries and cracks in a few seasons, and it can trap water instead of shedding it. Lasting flashing repair means new metal installed in the right order, with sealant only as a backup.
If the problem goes deeper than it first looked, a Randolph roofer may also recommend chimney flashing repair or roof leak repair.
Looking for Randolph flashing repair? Call (973) 858-1826 to talk to a local roofer.
Call nowFlashing repair is a layering job, done from the bottom up.
The flashing is checked along its full length, from the eave up, along with the wall sheathing where it can be seen. Soft siding or stained trim below the joint suggests the wall needs a look too.
To replace step flashing properly, a few courses of siding and the shingles along the wall are carefully removed. That is the only way to lap new metal behind the wall weather barrier.
Fresh step flashing goes in course by course with the shingles, starting with a kickout at the eave. Fasteners go into the roof deck only, never through the vertical leg into the wall.
Housewrap is lapped over the vertical legs, then siding goes back on with a gap above the shingles so it does not wick water. Siding pressed tight to the shingles stays wet and rots.
Drip edge along eaves and rakes is checked and replaced where it is bent or missing, lapped correctly with the underlayment. Correct laps at the edges keep water out of the fascia and soffit.
Kickouts are fitted at the bottom of roof-to-wall joints which protects the wall below.
Step pieces along walls and dormer cheeks are replaced behind the housewrap.
Bent or missing drip edge is replaced at eaves and rakes so water drips clear of the fascia.
Counter flashing over step pieces is refitted or replaced so the top edge of the step flashing stays covered.
Headwall metal at the top of a slope is replaced so water cannot run behind it.
Roof flashing repair ranges from resetting a single loose piece to rebuilding a full sidewall. A lifted counter flashing on a masonry wall may only need resetting into the mortar joint, while a leaking sidewall usually means new step flashing, new shingles along the wall and some siding work. Knowing the scope up front avoids surprises once siding comes off.
The metal used should suit the house. Copper, galvanized steel and aluminum all show up on roofs, and each has spots where it works best. Matching metals avoids corrosion where new and old flashing meet.
A valley is where two roof slopes meet, and it channels a large share of the roof water toward the eave. In an open valley, a band of metal stays exposed down the center, while in a closed or woven valley the shingles cover the valley and the underlayment beneath does the heavy lifting. A peel-and-stick underlayment down the valley is the backup layer in both styles.
Leaves and needles that pile up in a valley hold water and wear the shingles or rust the metal. Uncut shingle corners can catch water and direct it under the roofing. Valley repair usually means removing the shingles along the valley, replacing the membrane and metal and reshingling with the right cuts.
In Randolph, many flashing problems date back to an old reroof where the original flashing was reused or caulked instead of replaced. Homes in Randolph and nearby towns like Dover, Wharton, Succasunna and Rockaway range from older houses with aging galvanized flashing and no kickouts to newer homes with complex rooflines that rely on many wall joints, and each of those joints is a place worth checking.
Searching for flashing repair near me from Randolph or Dover, Wharton, Succasunna and Rockaway? Call (973) 858-1826 to talk to a roofer who works in your part of town.
Cold winters bring snow, ice and a long stretch of freezing nights. When warm attic air melts the snow, the meltwater runs down and freezes again at the eaves, building ice dams that push water up under the shingles. Coastal storms and heavy spring rain drive water sideways into flashing, valleys and old chimneys. Most homeowners in Randolph, NJ have the roof checked in the fall and again after the snow melts.
A roof problem fixed early rarely spreads to the decking, the insulation or the ceilings.
Roofers in Randolph know the roof types and weather wear common in local homes.
Ask your questions before you agree to anything.
More questions? Call (973) 858-1826
Chimney flashing rebuilt so the roof-to-brick joint sheds water again, instead of another coat of tar.
Learn moreFinding where water gets through the roof and sealing it at the source, with the damage underneath checked too.
Learn moreFixing leaking, fogged or cracked skylights and the flashing around them, without replacing a unit that can still be saved.
Learn moreFixing the vents and pipe collars that poke through a roof and often leak first, with the attic airflow kept working.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall (973) 858-1826 for a local roofer in Randolph and nearby towns.